Wow! That's a weird one since you use the same switch to turn the lights on and off while the engine is running or shut off. You'll have to use a voltmeter or multi-meter to check the voltage when the engine is on and off. They should be close, like maybe 13-14.5V DC engine on, and 12-13.5V DC when the engine is off. Only thing I can think of is that when the engine if off, there's maybe one to two volts less juice flowing to the accessories straight from the battery, not the alternator.
Check for power at the resistor pack and ground when the engine is running. If there is power at the resistor pack and there is a good ground at the connector, the LED kit is bad.
possibly the can-bus senses they are faulty when the ignition is on but not when the engine is not running , some cars need a resistor to fake a load on the circuit
Answers & Comments
Wow! That's a weird one since you use the same switch to turn the lights on and off while the engine is running or shut off. You'll have to use a voltmeter or multi-meter to check the voltage when the engine is on and off. They should be close, like maybe 13-14.5V DC engine on, and 12-13.5V DC when the engine is off. Only thing I can think of is that when the engine if off, there's maybe one to two volts less juice flowing to the accessories straight from the battery, not the alternator.
Check for power at the resistor pack and ground when the engine is running. If there is power at the resistor pack and there is a good ground at the connector, the LED kit is bad.
possibly the can-bus senses they are faulty when the ignition is on but not when the engine is not running , some cars need a resistor to fake a load on the circuit